This Project
We will use the dormant deadstock fabric in the warehouse to create garments in every step by hand, from design to stitching. The resulting clothing holds an incredibly personal attachment. We are officially launching the NEED TO SAY NOTHING brand.
Thoughts on the 'NEED TO SAY NOTHING=NTSN' Project
Do you have clothing that you feel a strong attachment to? Somemight answer with a special dress passed down from their mother, while others
may mention a well-worn T-shirt. I believe the answer is as varied as the number of people asked.I still cherish the first shirt I ever bought. To me, clothing with sentimental value is about the stories it carries, the warmth of handcraftsmanship, and the joy it brings when you put it on. Just like the memory of buying my first piece of clothing at a select shop that still evokes joy, I hope 'NTSN' will exist in someone's life along with their positive emotions.
'NTSN' is an independent fashion label designing cherished garments. We oversee every step from sourcing the fabric to design, pattern-making, cutting, and sewing. We create each piece with meticulous care.
Being a solo operation allows us to maintain a strong commitment to
handcrafting and design. We strive to produce one-of-a-kind pieces that
resonate emotionally, which is something that mass production cannot achieve.
Fashion can sometimes be a symbol of material abundance, owning well-known brands, or enjoying style affordably. While these material aspects are attractive, I firmly believe that emotional and sensory fashion, much like how a song can evoke memories and feelings, can enrich our hearts and lives. We aim to offer such enrichment through 'NTSN'.
The Importance of Thoughtfulness in 'NTSN'
Hello, my name is Ryonggi Oh. I've spent 12 years in the fashionindustry, starting with experiences in domestic fast fashion and overseas
luxury brands. I also worked with fabric trading companies and domestic
production. Additionally, fashion has been a constant presence in my life since childhood. My grandmother managed a sewing factory, and my mother worked as a freelance buyer. Along this journey, my perception of clothing and its value evolved significantly at different life stages.As a college student, I saw fashion as a tool for looking stylish.However, during an exchange program in China, I encountered a classmate from a
rural background who, on our farewell day, wore a necklace that was notably different from her usual attire. When I complimented her on it, she explained that she received it from her mother and was wearing it for my farewell. I felt a heartwarming sincerity in the act of dressing up to show respect for someone.After graduating, I worked at a fast fashion company and later enrolled in a fashion institute. During my studies, I won a competition in the United States, leading to an internship at a luxury fashionhouse in France the following year. The contest was a gathering of individuals from around the world passionate about fashion, and the exchange of enthusiasm left a lasting impression. Meeting like-minded individuals with whom I could challenge and inspire each other was a valuable experience. Observing the dedication invested in each garment, coupled with the passion for art and self-expression, created moments of stimulation and enrichment.
In 2017, I had the opportunityto intern in France, and I decided to embark on the journey to the country.
During the internship in France, I was involved in the creation of haute couture collections, working as a designer.
This journey took me from fast fashion to the world of haute couture, and the experiences there continue to influence my perspective today. Creating a single dress could take up to 200 hours, especially when it involved intricate embroidery. The embroidery was not just about drawing with thread on fabric but also incorporating three-dimensional elements like feathers and artificial flowers, meticulously sewn one stitch at a time, making the dress a piece of art. Seeing models walk the runway in these creations was moving, but what truly gave me a sense of fulfillment was when customers admired the dress, understood how much time and effort had gone into it, and appreciated the craft. It was an indescribable feeling.
Upon graduating from institute, I had the opportunity to participate in Vancouver Fashion Week in Canada, thanks to the graduation collection I created. I presented a total of 13 looks during the event. This fashion week is a unique occasion that provides emerging designers and students who have won awards in contests the chance to showcase their work from around the world. It became a platform for me to reflect on what I wanted to achieve, communicate, and convey through my designs. It also prompted me to think about what viewers might feel, think, and seek when observing my creations.
After returning to Japan, I joined a small factory in Osaka, where I learned the skills involved in the process of intermediate ironing. Many people associate factories with sewing machines, but intermediate ironing plays a crucial role in shaping garments before they are complete. In reality, this role is pivotal in determining the overall quality of the finished product. The factory had about five workers, and they excelled in intricate clothing production, almost like solving a puzzle. While any factory could sew a basic shirt with similar results, the complexity increased when it came to intricate designs. Deciding how to finish the garment at each step was a prerequisite, as making a mistake along the way was often irreversible. Therefore, meticulous planning and thinking ahead were essential. The handcrafted nature of the work, which machines couldn't replicate, contributed to the distinct quality of the clothing. I realized that there was an innate, sensory appeal to clothing made with pride.
With the knowledge and techniques I acquired during this period, Istarted thinking about creating something of value. That's when 'NTSN' was born.
'NEED TO SAY NOTHING' signifies emotion-infused clothing, where words are unnecessary.Discarded Fabrics
It's almost certain that fabrics produced in large quantities endup unsold and eventually stored in warehouses for a specific duration before being disposed of. In Japan, this amounts to 170,000 tons of fabric annually, equivalent to about 3.3 billion pieces of clothing. Most of these fabrics end up in incinerators, exacerbating environmental pollution. The idea of doing something interesting with these fabrics has been in the back of my mind for a while. When the concept of 'NTSN' took shape, I was fortunate to secure a source of deadstock fabric from a fabric trading company.
Activities
1. Purchase of Discarded Fabrics:We acquire deadstock fabrics from fabric trading companies,purchasing them in rolls (usually around 50 meters per roll). This forms the
starting point for our design process. We typically buy up to one roll of
fabric per fabric type.2. Design:
Using the purchased deadstock fabrics, we initiate the designprocess. We aim to create up to three designs per fabric roll, although this
may vary depending on the length of the fabric. Once the designs are finalized,
we create patterns, assemble and adjust them, and develop production-ready
templates.3. Production:
We produce a total of 10 pieces for each design, resulting in amonthly production of 30 pieces, all crafted by a single individual.
Ourgoal is to produce a maximum of 30 pieces from a single fabric, creating 36 designs and 360 pieces of clothing annually.Allocation of Project Budget
1. Cost of Purchasing Fabrics:
- Expenses for acquiring deadstock fabrics from fabric tradingcompanies.
2. Miscellaneous Production Expenses:
- Costs associated with the production process, includingmaterials, labor, and other production-related expenses.
3. Preparation and Exhibition Costs for Future Department Storeand Shop Sales:
- Funds required for preparing and displaying products indepartment stores or shops as part of future expansion plans.
4. Website Development and E-commerce Site Expenses:
- Budget for creating the official NTSN website andmanaging e-commerce operations.
5. Hosting Events to Promote NTSN:
- Costs associated with organizing events and promotionalactivities to raise awareness and promote the NTSN.
Previous Endeavors
We have already completed a total of 29 products from three designsusing a single discarded fabric. These products are available for selection as part of the return; SLEEVELESS BLOUSE, PULL-OVER BLOUSE and SHIRTS DRESS. Moreover, we plan to continue creating, expand our distribution channels through participation in exhibitions, approaching select shops, and launching an e-commerce website.
Anticipated Risks and Challenges
This project is conducted through production funding. Therefore,even if the funding goal is not met, I will supplement it with personal funds
to continue developing the brand. Additionally, for the returns, items are
already made or materials are available, so they can be delivered as planned. Please rest assured.Finally, to all of you,
Thank you for taking the time to explore the 'NEED TO SAY NOTHING' project. Our products have come to life with the help of many individuals. To continue our
work, we need your support. We eagerly anticipate the day when you can hold our handmade products and receive your chosen rewards. Your support is sincerely appreciated!Returns
All items are handcrafting using a sample garments or leftover fabrics.
You can purchase them on Motion Gallery site.
1. Key Ring
2.Coaster
3. Earbuds bag
4.Book Cover
5. Pen Case
6. Pouch
7. Tote Bag
8.Sleeveless Blouse
9. Pullover Blouse
10. Shirts Dress
1.KeyR, 2.Coaster, 3.Earbuds B
4.Book Cover, 5.Pen Case
6.Pouch, 7.Tote Bag
You can choose the fabrics.
8. Sleeveless Blouse
9. Pull-Over Blouse
10. Shirts Dress
